Lagos is a bustling, modern, contemporary city- or at least the small slice of it I inhabit, which is likely not representative of what the majority of Nigerians, or Lagoasians. I am in a bubble. A very strange, very uncomfortable, very Hunger-Games like bubble with a nearly impenetrable force field surrounding me.
In this VI bubble, using Bolt (Taxify) or Uber to command a ride is the way things are done. For me, this creates several issues. Ethically, after reading Winners Take All by Anand Giridharadas, I am conflicted about the services. While many turn to these companies in order to feel safer about their transportation options, few seem to consider the hazards involved for the drivers. They grapple with everything from unwanted romantic advances to theft and even physical harm or, in extreme cases, murder.
Not only does driving pose risks, there is the uncertainty and inequality of the pay. As a frequent Taxify- now Bolt- user, I have often been awarded discounts and rewards for trips, reducing a 700N trip to 300N, an equivalent of about $2 being reduced to about $1. For a taxi ride. That is completely unheard of anywhere in the world. And because these companies require the cars to be up to certain standards, we are talking about a trip in a clean working car with air conditioning. Very comfortable. Very smooth. For less than a $1. The driver cannot be making any profit on this. I generally tip all my trips, and the surprise of the drivers suggests this is not a common occurrence.
Aside from the ethical issues, there remains the practical issue of needing to have a charged, internet connected phone on you at all times. For me, this is more of a challenge than perhaps it should be. I have never kept roaming internet on my phone, preferring only to use any wi-fi I might have at home and leaving all that connectivity at the doorway. Not so now.
Apparently being connected uses a lot of battery power. And with my somewhat "ancient" phone, the battery depletes quickly. I travel with charger in case it is ever possible to stop and plug in somewhere but this strategy is not fool proof. Yesterday, I had to make a pit stop at home to charge up for about an hour before continuing my errands. I am working on getting a portable battery pack, but being tethered to all of this technology goes against everything I want to be- unconnected, present in my moments and free.
Of course there are local, off line options. The one trip I took during a phone outage resulted in driving around the city and never actually reaching my destination only to be told my fare was five times the normal rate. I had to talk hard to reduce that ridiculous number and even then I only managed to get it down to slightly half, still double the normal amount.
The driver was an older man who insisted that he knew the school I was trying to go to. Of course, there were warning signs. When I said French school, and he said which one, there are so many? I should have recognized that he clearly didn't know where we were going. I told him there was only one, but he drove us out to the British school and attempted to drive further out to another school with an international sounding name before I got him to turn around. I knew it wasn't that far. But without my phone, I couldn't call, couldn't check a map and had no idea where I was going.
Before all this internet stuff, I would have done my homework well, written down directions in advance, and been prepared. I guess it was just as much my fault as his.
The other transportation option is the small three-wheeled Keke, which seems innocent enough, but in the case of an accident, maiming or death is likely. I am still trying to decide how big the risks are, much like the motos of Bamako, I imagine. I toy with the idea that for small distances, it might be ok. On back roads or just around the corner type of rides, perhaps. In the meantime, I don't mind supporting the Taxify drivers, sometimes even paying even double what the app suggests.
Taxi on command might be the only thing you can still pay cash for in Lagos. Since 2012, the country has pushing to move towards cash-less banking. Everything done here involving money seems complicated, and the cash-less system is no exception. Perhaps I am still in the learning curve. I was able to process my first transfer for a service yesterday, after several failed attempts. Electronic transfers require steady internet service. Maybe that was the cause. No one could really explain why it wasn't working, but luckily everyone had patience to wait for me to figure out a solution (the company in question was actually willing to accept cash, a rarity for certain.)
Everyone from fitness trainers to dance instructors to housekeepers have their account numbers ready for you to transfer money into. Food delivery, shopping and restaurants all prefer card over cash. After our first foray into the world, back during our teacher orientation week when we were ridiculously counting out 50-80 thousand bill nairas, it is easy to see why. Cash is just not practical for big purchases.
Another dilemma involves the whole USD to naira conversion. I have just opened a USD account, since they are not mixable. Naira only into the naira account and USD only into the USD account. So I wire myself some USD from my US account, withdraw it from the bank (now for a fee) and have a reputable money changer meet me at the bank (for a better rate.)
Always the "black market" money changers offer a better rate. I remember my first experience with this in Guinea, we changed our money right outside the bank and I had a sense of trying to be clandestine. Fast forward 11 years and hop a few countries to the east and the school accountant is advising me to meet the money changer inside the bank (for safety) to directly transfer the naira to my naira account (hopefully no fee here, since it would be an electronic transfer.) The other option is to somehow bring all of the USD I will need for the year, in cash, when I come back after summer. Apparently some people can actually do this.
All of the complexities surrounding money and transfers and accounts (I have four or five already and I have only been here for less than a month. I have my savings, which I use for naira, the USD account, a "shadow account" which is only used to transfer my USD salary to my US account. Apparently only the bank can access this account, but it has my name attached to it. And there is one more mystery account which shows in my mobile banking but never has any money in it- it might be the shadow account, although I am told the money passes through there- first naira, which must then be used to buy USD at a good price. I understand that the school foots the bill for the cost of buying USD. )
Money on top of money. One message that's been reinforced and exemplified in my short time here in Lagos, in this small suffocating bubble of VI and surrounding islands, is that nothing good comes from money. Most of the "good books" caution against usury and other ills associated with money. Aside from being downright complicated, all of the rules and regulations meant to safeguard one against fraud seem to simply make it harder to access your own money and potentially easier for others to do so. It is always the thieves who benefit from all the entanglements.
I am dreaming of the days when I can escape the on-line, interconnected nature of life and business in the simulated city. I tell myself all situations are temporary and eventually I will be untethered. And quickly so, as climate change is bearing down and this collection of islands surely hasn't a very secure future.
22.9.19
7.9.19
African threads
While it is starting to seem like every time I arrive in a new country, something dramatic happens, I am going with the notion that dramatic things are always happening, I'm just not always in the periphery.
There were the elections in Congo, the mutiny in Cote d'Ivoire, the kidnapping alert in Mali and now here, the recent tension, violence and killings in South Africa which have had major effects in Nigeria and Congo (RDC is popping up wherever I go- there always seems to be some kind of connection.)
Attacks in South Africa inspired reprisals, business closures and embassy shutdowns. An overview of events found here outlines some of the major responses, including an offer by Air Peace to fly Nigerians living in South Africa back home, if they wish. Surely this is a much more complicated issue and Nigerians speak about their decisions here. As is becoming typical of our times, social media has done much to inflame the issue, with wide sharing of mis-identified video clips or photos. Protests in Nigeria and Congo have been linked to more damage, injuries and death.
While taking attendance in class the other day, I queried about a student, only to be told he'd flown back to South Africa. His dad worked for MTN and with the embassy shutting down, getting out of country was the safe decision. His classmates took a light hearted tone, suggesting he'd gone off to hiding, and implying he'd return eventually. As if they'd gone through this, or something similar, before- which they likely have. Other classes were also abuzz with news, often citing the viral videos with misinformation. I took some small time to suggest deeper investigation before believing everything you see, all the while wondering why 10-year-olds had access to news about people being burned alive. The conversations among international school students never ceases to surprise and amaze.
In other quiet news, the border between Benin and Nigeria has been closed- with my carefully packed and much missed baggage on the other side. Apparently there are concerns about rice smuggling, which is a term I'd never heard of before arriving here.
And if all of that weren't enough of a convoluted connection, the Nigerian embassy in Congo suffered some bad media play when Congolese officials were videoed throwing out furniture and other belongings. Officials from both countries have reported they've resolved the situation, which occurred over a misunderstanding about paperwork.
My own attempts to get back to Kinshasa are currently being thwarted by an inability to contact the embassy here. None of the numbers for the office in Abuja work, and email is silent. Luckily, if you're Lost in Lagos, there's Nothing to Do.
There were the elections in Congo, the mutiny in Cote d'Ivoire, the kidnapping alert in Mali and now here, the recent tension, violence and killings in South Africa which have had major effects in Nigeria and Congo (RDC is popping up wherever I go- there always seems to be some kind of connection.)
Attacks in South Africa inspired reprisals, business closures and embassy shutdowns. An overview of events found here outlines some of the major responses, including an offer by Air Peace to fly Nigerians living in South Africa back home, if they wish. Surely this is a much more complicated issue and Nigerians speak about their decisions here. As is becoming typical of our times, social media has done much to inflame the issue, with wide sharing of mis-identified video clips or photos. Protests in Nigeria and Congo have been linked to more damage, injuries and death.
While taking attendance in class the other day, I queried about a student, only to be told he'd flown back to South Africa. His dad worked for MTN and with the embassy shutting down, getting out of country was the safe decision. His classmates took a light hearted tone, suggesting he'd gone off to hiding, and implying he'd return eventually. As if they'd gone through this, or something similar, before- which they likely have. Other classes were also abuzz with news, often citing the viral videos with misinformation. I took some small time to suggest deeper investigation before believing everything you see, all the while wondering why 10-year-olds had access to news about people being burned alive. The conversations among international school students never ceases to surprise and amaze.
In other quiet news, the border between Benin and Nigeria has been closed- with my carefully packed and much missed baggage on the other side. Apparently there are concerns about rice smuggling, which is a term I'd never heard of before arriving here.
And if all of that weren't enough of a convoluted connection, the Nigerian embassy in Congo suffered some bad media play when Congolese officials were videoed throwing out furniture and other belongings. Officials from both countries have reported they've resolved the situation, which occurred over a misunderstanding about paperwork.
My own attempts to get back to Kinshasa are currently being thwarted by an inability to contact the embassy here. None of the numbers for the office in Abuja work, and email is silent. Luckily, if you're Lost in Lagos, there's Nothing to Do.
Choosing Peace
I knew names in Nigeria would be much different than what I'd experienced before. People names are notorious for the length and difficulty. They're often shortened to a nickname of one sort or another, which may or may not retain the beauty and elegance of the full title. The name really does serve as a title, often having some grand meaning- a whole entire sentence, even, like "God has given me someone to care for" (Olufunke) or "I am rejoicing at God's grace" (Moyosoreoluwa.)
Names of stores that retain sentence structure are often fodder for comedy routines. "God's Good Grace and Ultimate Blessings Hair Salon." There are business name guidelines, however. And this post isn't really about those long names. I've been thinking more about the shorter, more direct names that have crossed my path in the last few weeks.
Searching for a nanny is always a bit traumatic. I remember Nabih went through 4 nannies before finally finding someone who could keep up with him. Our Bamako nanny search led to the ridiculous situation of having a series of nannies quit on me. Luckily, I think we've found someone on only the second go around.
The people I'd been introduced to (for potentially offering a reference) and list of names I was given as potential job candidates included Joy, Blessing, Peace, and Happiness, along with one Juliana Lawson. Just as I wondered if the universe was trying to tell me something, I walked into the restroom at school and noticed the clipboard the attendant signs to indicate regular cleaning. Comfort.
Everywhere I turned I was being inundated with positive cheer. In the end, I went with Peace. She has a wonderful disposition and gets along well with Mbalia. As a business major, she doesn't do much in the way of chopping carrots or whipping up a grilled cheese, but she's willing to try. And the idea of working to save money to go back to school is something I am happy to support.
Names of stores that retain sentence structure are often fodder for comedy routines. "God's Good Grace and Ultimate Blessings Hair Salon." There are business name guidelines, however. And this post isn't really about those long names. I've been thinking more about the shorter, more direct names that have crossed my path in the last few weeks.
Searching for a nanny is always a bit traumatic. I remember Nabih went through 4 nannies before finally finding someone who could keep up with him. Our Bamako nanny search led to the ridiculous situation of having a series of nannies quit on me. Luckily, I think we've found someone on only the second go around.
The people I'd been introduced to (for potentially offering a reference) and list of names I was given as potential job candidates included Joy, Blessing, Peace, and Happiness, along with one Juliana Lawson. Just as I wondered if the universe was trying to tell me something, I walked into the restroom at school and noticed the clipboard the attendant signs to indicate regular cleaning. Comfort.
Everywhere I turned I was being inundated with positive cheer. In the end, I went with Peace. She has a wonderful disposition and gets along well with Mbalia. As a business major, she doesn't do much in the way of chopping carrots or whipping up a grilled cheese, but she's willing to try. And the idea of working to save money to go back to school is something I am happy to support.
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