funeral dance

It's complete. I've attended each of the cycle of life events in Abidjan. A funeral, or more precisely a wake, the most recent event to complete the cycle. Where once I had my eyes on comparing Congo with America, I now compare African countries or cultures with each other. There is often a lot of similarities- enough to suggest all those confused "Africa is a country" people should maybe get a little slack.

This wake took place outside in a community space, probably a lot of soccer going on there during the day. The set up was familiar- 4 tents creating an open square in the middle. The music- from machines to singers to musicians- carefully situated under one, the family and memorials in another, guests cozied up in hoodies and wrapped in pagnes under the rest. There are plastic chairs, plenty of plastic chairs. Many of the guests will stay all night and the neat rows of chairs will eventually transform into a zigzagged mess as people create sleeping areas.

There was a choir singing in the early evening hours and it gave way to the typical overly loud music. Most of what I saw was very similar, right down to the vendor who walked through at one point offering tissues for sale. The differences were in language (French dominates Abidjan) and musical selection (coupe decale.)

Sometime after midnight, the Nescafe carts showed up, on order or by business design I'm not sure. Most likely there was a bit of arrangement involved. One of the cousins walked around with a tray offering small cups of coffee to attendees. That same cousin made the rounds minutes later to collect the empty cups.

Coffee carts ready for your 2 am needs

One major difference from my previous experiences was the presence of artists. Not just attending but playing and performing. The entire event began to resemble wedding sized entertainment with the customary walking-dance circle in the middle. I've participated in a few of these, my first in a village in Guinee. On that occasion it was celebratory, but structure seems the same regardless of the underlying emotion. The circle is slow, the dancing subdued, occasionally a leader emerges to throw out a sample step which everyone repeats for awhile. But in general, people just move in a circle swaying to the beat, sometimes erupting in a cry of joy or anguish, sometimes leaving the circle to find a quiet moment alone, other times leaning on and supporting each other as they make their way around.

After that dispersed, the artists presented their full tributes. Dancing, fire eating, acrobatics, hip-hop break style, and songs written or created in the moment for the moment. Once I got over noticing the wedding similarities, I started wondering about the tributes.  Particularly among the hip hop crew, who were a bit younger, a bit more pumped.  At a certain point, their competition and joy over winning began to strike me as more ego satisfaction than tribute to the deceased. Perhaps there is always that fine line with artists.

Fire dancing by the son and

first time I have seen a woman fire dancing

Equally confusing for my American mind, the pandering for money. It is routine to send a hat around (a persistent someone with a hat to be more precise.) It is also customary to dance in front of the principle family members, who are required to throw some money to show appreciation. It just all seems out of place in a time of sorrow. Having to worry about money and ritual and obligation.

Of course, I am a funeral avoider. I don't have a lot of US funeral experience. Actually, I have only been to 2 funerals and both were filled with awkward tension, silent grief and an unbearable need to escape. Here in Africa, funerals appear to be more cathartic, community events. Grief is loud and visible. It washes over mourners like a wave, ebbing and flowing in its strength. Wailing women cling to their sisters and mothers one minute, only to be seen making their way around the dance circle the next. It is a long night but the presence of family, friends, and even random walkers-by lends a timeless air to the event.

I was a little in awe of how quickly 3 am arrived. I had been slightly worried about our ability to find a taxi home, which didn't turn out to be much of a problem. As we left, I thought about those who would stay in vigil all night. I understood again that sense of the night time being sacred, when we are closest to the spirit world. It's the perfect time for a funeral dance.