28.4.19

The Process

The school year is winding down, and it is just one of many things coming to a close. It's time for reflecting on our Bamako years and celebrating all we've experienced. Sometimes I forget to appreciate the many things we have done, in the midst of feeling isolated and far away. (from what, I can't exactly say, but Bamako inspires in me a sense of distance.)

The painting / book project I began just over a year ago is also coming to a close. We will have the first of two final showings, complete with book mock up, 11 paintings and a music and dance performance. It's a fitting end and feeling like the best finale I've had leaving a country.

The project involved creating a series of paintings to explain the traditional dance called Dansa. I had brought up the idea one day after dance class when I heard that the instructor had an organization dedicated to researching origins of traditional dance. His group also had an objective of bringing traditional dance to public schools. I love dance in schools and thought a literacy component would be a great addition. I also figured Malian students would really benefit from having books documenting their cultural heritage. So began a year of collaboration.

Drissa and I signed the paintings yesterday. We started with a kind of solemn, formal signing on the first few and then hurried things along. I tend to do everything too quickly.

But I have been reflecting on the process- of painting together, of telling the story, of crafting the scenes and of gathering information.

A few mistakes were made from the outset, some of the kind that I knew were not such a good idea at the time but chose to ignore and others, well, I am not sure how they happened.

The biggest mistake was in getting the story right. Somehow we were under the impression that the dance we'd chosen to depict was a wedding dance. I can see how this information was misinterpreted, but it was still surprising to find out, once the project had been nearly complete.

This process was heavily focused on the images, not so much on the story. I've never approached it that way and it is another reason the miscommunication did not get worked out until the end. It was easy enough to rearrange the story a bit, so it remains factual and still fits our images. But next time, double checking the information seems like an obvious first step.

My fact finding mission, really just a clarification of details, involved a meeting with the griots- two ladies the dancer and his wife know. They arranged an evening at their house so I could ask questions and verify the order of events. Initially, I'd had some questions about the role of the bride and how she felt about some of the steps in the wedding process (being sequestered for several days) and the role of the henna painting (was it true red henna meant innocent and black henna meant not so innocent? and who would ever choose the black henna?) but by the time of the meeting, I'd worked through my angst about the details. And my curiosity. I was more focused on the big picture.

The ladies were helpful in describing the order of events, though all stories seem to evolve in that circular thinking common to tales involving African tradition. It's hard to keep track of a story that isn't linear. When one path leads to another and a suddenly interesting detail is revealed, which brings us down a whole new path, but doesn't really relate to the original question....yeah, it's a bit of a challenge to pull out the relevant information. But I was more enriched for the immersion of it all.

They liked my idea and caught a quick glimpse of the images which prompted them to do some on the spot praise singing. The older woman began, and actually seemed to put the younger woman on the spot, as she was still eating. She managed to sing out a few words in between bites, eventually succumbing to the pressure to sing rather than eat. The difficulty of being a griot- always in demand.
They sang so beautifully I wanted to rest my head on someone's shoulder and curl up and be comforted. Their voices were soothing.

Of course, I couldn't understand everything they were saying, aside from my name. Occasionally they threw in a French word or two, something about painting, something about telling stories, and oh yeah, something about my long nose. Leave it to the griots to sing it like it is.

I never really know how to respond to moments like that, so I just sat and soaked it up, hoping to file away the goodness for one of those days when I need a happy memory. I left with my pages of notes and sincere thanks for the evening.

Another step has involved getting the paintings photographed, which we are still not sure has been done correctly. But I do have a file of high definition photos from a Malian photographer who has worked on the national archives (Mali has a history of acclaimed photographers and is in the process of uploading works to digital storage) among other projects, as well as his own work. When I asked him about printing, he suggested the photography school and asked if I had time right then to go visit. We took off on his motorcycle and arrived within minutes. I really appreciated his understanding of my deadline and his willingness to see me though another phase.

We spent about an hour talking to the director, calculating sizes and discussing the objective of the project. The printing room hosted a 12-ink color printer larger than I am tall. Swiss, I was told. There was another under cover that had come, perhaps, from France. I am sometimes still amazed at the things that get imported in. This was impressive.

The director was incredibly helpful during both of my visits. He was patient and interested in the creative aspects of the project. He understood my dilemmas (one of the mistakes I'd chosen to ignore was the size and format of the paintings - clearly not ideal for transformation into a book. I knew this at the time and yet, we'd forged ahead anyway with the materials on hand.)  Because there were 3 basic sizes, each one had to be calculated in relation to the others. And there was the problem of the two landscape formats, which would need to be split to cover two pages.

The director, Youssouf, was a very kind man who worked hard to understand my vision and help with formatting and printing the images. While we waited for a sample print, we talked art and even yoga. He told us a story about the need for movement in keeping the body spry and showed off a few of his poses. When the young kids come into the studio for training, he sits them down in a circle and gets them stretching. He challenges them to touch their head with their toes. The best life lessons always come in unexpected places.

When our test sample was complete, we made a few more minor adjustments. Youssouf talked about his own experience as painter, which he gave up when he found it couldn't provide his meals. He said he was taking careful interest in our work, treating it as he would his own. He seemed really interested in the creativity of the work. "We are not a print shop, we are artisans, We're crafting something," he told me, once we'd finally figured out all the measurements, especially the tricky landscape split. I am hoping to pick up the finished product in the next few days and add the text. Drissa may even have time to add some designs to the page borders, which are quite large in some cases due to our awkward canvas dimensions.

The last piece to all of this is the dance. I have been wanting to perform since I arrived full of energy and enthusiasm to be dancing with such great drummers again. However, this has all come together so quickly, there isn't really time to prepare the way I'd like. We've only practiced twice and there might be two more times before the exhibit. That's about a billion times less than the number I'd really hope for. I'd feel much better if the moves were so ingrained I didn't have to think much about them. Or listen so hard to hear the break.

But I do love dancing and the performance part, our amateur part, is sure to be over before it really begins. I guess what I love is dancing in class when the music goes on and on and we have a million times to get it right. When it feels full and open and free. I am not sure I will be able to replicate that feeling in a 5 minute performance in front of a bunch of people I don't know. But I am willing to try.
It will be the most fitting way to say goodbye to Bamako.

The Cognosu- where a new bride is secluded
for a week after her wedding. She's not
completely alone, her mangamaga
prepares her meals and gives her good
advice about wifely things 

7.4.19

Ecole Eco-Poincon

Spring break wasn't much of a break. Between moving and my grad classes, there wasn't really time for rest. We did take a day, however, to go and visit a school I'd read about in this article from France24.

I was intrigued by such progressive measures happening right here in the capital. Blind and sighted children studying together. And a blind teacher on top of it all. This completely inspiring story seemed to be perfect for finding a way to help our students engage in the community and learn something as well.

So, my field trip partner and I took a ride out to the school. Although it is said to be in Bamako, the journey took about an hour. Much of it was on a fairly decent main road and even after we turned onto the dirt road, it was still in pretty good condition.

Typical Malian landscape stretched out before us, dry, hot, dusty. Bushes and small trees dotted the fields, a structured village sprang up at one point which had us navigating a small dirt road with high mud walls on either side. That was the most interesting thing to see, along with a refreshing mango tree providing a bit of shade and a community hang out.

Into the Malian bush
However, most of the land was sprinkled with little cement buildings. One room, mostly finished but not complete. We guessed they were placed by landowners to secure their claim to the spot. I was struck by the emptiness of everything. I wondered how people got even the most basic of supplies. While we did see a few quincailleries, the hardware shops catering to all the construction workers in the area, there was't even one boutique or small items store. I also didn't see many motorcycles, which would have reduced to trip to the main road to about 10 or 15 minutes.

These empty stalls were scattered across the fields
Eventually we turned off behind one of the half finished houses and parked the cars. The school was a small building, just two classrooms and it looked lonely, the only painted building in the middle of a field of concrete shells.

We visited the first class and were met by a cheerful teaching team. The main teacher, a blind woman, and her sighted teaching assistant we warm and welcoming. The children waited patiently while Mr. Diakite explained how the school worked and showed us the materials he'd brought back from France for use in the instruction of the blind children. One of the girls wrote something for us using a pointed stylus and a frame that held the paper. Another child shared his grid with raised braille number tiles.

A cheerful teaching team


A sighted student went to the board to demonstrate his math lesson. The students had been working on math problems and he was solving 8+8. He did this by coming up and making tally marks, creating eight lines on each side of the plus sign. Then he went back and counted all the lines. Part of me was wondering why or when they might teach the tally system, or if they taught counting by groups or other strategies for determining the answer.

The little boy in front seems tired of the interruption
But another part of me was observing this boy, counting out his lines, while the rest of the class repeated everything he said. I've seen and heard this countless times in African schools, and even some not so African classrooms. The choral response. I hadn't given much thought to it before but in this moment, the sense of community was striking. I was thinking about how difficult it might be for some children to come up to the board and put their answer there, and I wondered for a minute if the call and response would be intimidating for a shy child. But just after that thought, I saw the power of having your peers support you in this way. I had new eyes then, seeing this choral response as an enfolding and community encircling. Just another small action that leads to the strong sense of connection to others and a little less to the individualism of America.

I wonder how it would have played out if he'd been wrong,  or if he'd counted wrong. Would the group still repeat him? Would someone offer the correct answer? Or would it be up to the teacher to make the correction?

I didn't have time to interrogate about teaching methods. We visited the next classroom for only a few seconds, no demonstrations. This was the older class, with less students and a more serious teaching team.

After those introductions, Mr. Diakite took us over to view the dormitories. Its a big word used to describe the bedrooms available in another shell of a house. There are three bedrooms, one for teachers, one for girls and one for the boys. The teachers room had two beds with frames and mosquito nets. The girls room had only mattresses on the floor, while the boys room hosted a set of bunk beds and another bed on a frame. Mr. Diakite had been able to have the bunk beds made after a recent trip to France where he'd been given the funds in a donation.

Donations are far from the main source of the school. Diakite offers half of his salary as a government minister to pay for the teachers and the caretakers of the blind children who stay on during the week. He provides food for the children and the family of the woman who watches over them. On the weekends, the teachers and students go home to visit their families. For those whose families are too far away, Diakite opens his own home and hosts them for the weekends.

It was nothing short of remarkable to hear this man talking about the things he is committed to doing for the blind children of Mali. He says he has 10 more blind students who want to enroll next school year, but surely there will reach a limit to his ability to afford it all out of pocket.

I am hoping we will be able t0 establish some kind of kinship between our schools so that can serve as a resource at times. It would be great to be able to get the students together to create art and possibly auction it off. Or even just getting together to create is a likely benefit.

But in the end, it takes funding to do good work. I am hoping that the word will get out about Youssouf Diakite and his progressive school for blind and sighted children. I regret not being here in Bamako longer to try and make some thing incredible things happen.

Two room school house

Half built buildings provide a home for many

We took a walk down the road to see some cows

Our guide, walking with her radio

Hot, dry, dusty and skinny cows

We even passed a pig corral, which I found surprising and rare