Last weekend we were able to take a small trip to the Banco Forêt, a forest preserve located in the heart of Abidjan. The entrance we used was located just off a busy, 4 lane highway. Our driver, long time resident and fellow teacher, informed us several times that this particular stretch of highway was home to frequent traffic accidents often attributed to the mysterious spirits of the forest.
After meeting our guide, we rode about 3 km down to a central parking area. Here we viewed the first forestry school in West Africa, once the prime center of the area capable of attracting forest guards from all of the neighboring countries. Now, it seemed quiet and deserted.Our entire afternoon was filled with lush greens and wild earth. It was soul filling. I reminisced about all the places in Congo we'd been able to visit in their savage originality. Abidjan is just overflowing with cement and I haven't concentrated my energy into escaping it.
During our visit, the guide emphasized how well the forest was secured and patrolled. The official word is that things are much improved from "the crisis." (a recurrent and oft-used phrases to describe the war years.) To prove the point, he tells us that the military conducts trainings here and this is supposed to discourage the undesirables. It doesn't stop the stories.
From political concentration camps to this 10 year old account of thieves and spirits to the more recent accounts of smokehouses and human heads, the mystery of the forest cannot be put to sleep. In 2009, the search for Guy-André Kieffer, a French-Canadian journalist, expanded to include Banco- though without results. The forest continues to have such a reputation that in April of 2016, artist Affou Keita is said to have been "surprised" in Banco- suggesting perhaps she was there to do more than just film her latest music video but, in actuality, to take part in ceremonial rituals to avenge those against her. In May of 2016, the discovery of a body with multiple piercings and no identifying information continues to add to the mystery of the site.
While we enjoyed our trip in group, and I joked frequently about returning with a bicycle, the persistent myths have wedged themselves into my psyche. A walk in the botanical gardens, without security, will be much more refreshing.
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| The highway and city view from the "forest door" |
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| Really enjoyed the shape of the new buildings- yet to be opened |
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| The ceilings were a cozy weave of fronds |
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| It didn't take Mbalia long to find a buddy |
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| Forestry school |
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| A rag tag gang of forest explorers |
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| A dreamy little forest house |
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| Heavy rains = brown river |
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| Forest silhouette |
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| We had a forest guide and security |
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| These fountains were dotted throughout |
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| Our guide was very thorough |
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| Straight out of a Wes Craven |
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| 500 year old tree..dying |
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| Mbalia gets a photography lesson |
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| Our motley crew |
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This building, air conditioned in the
middle of the forest, housed skulls
and skeleton parts |
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| Giant leaves |
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| The tree of intrigue |
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| In front of the 500 year old tree- eco-tourists I guess. |
