Mutiny

Since my last post, the list of miss vs. not miss has grown like wild fire. I've started making notes in my phone for an anticipated numbered account. Essential oils in the pharmacies is definitely going to make the miss list. Hugely.

I was on my way to the pharmacy during my lunch break yesterday, in search of a certain lavender neroli blend my yoga teacher uses, when I noticed them. In their black and gray marbled uniforms, the police sitting just at the end of the school parking lot stood out distinctly from our daily security, who wear canary yellow shirts and typical guardian gray pants with a black stripe down the side.

The policemen, about 5 of them, were all lined up in blue chairs looking bored out of their minds, a few actually napping in the shade. I have noticed a greater police presence, truckloads full sitting at corners and patrolling the streets. It doesn't feel like so many, but because there are usually none, the contrast is noticeable. I can't help but think of Kinshasa where the presence of military, police, guns and even the occasional tank were an everyday affair. It was only when the riot gear came out that we began to suspect something was up.

There's mutiny in Cote d'Ivoire and it has everyone on edge, wondering what will happen next. I am reminded this is the way of Africa, everything is fine until it's not. Apparently it began with the military going on strike in order to receive promised pay that never materialized. The president seemed to issue a super swift response (a good decision when guns are involved) acquiescing to the demand. It turns out, he only approved some of the pay, for some of the people (probably not such a good decision when guns are involved.)

In conjunction with, or directly because of (it's hard to be clear on the sequence of events) other government-paid entities went on strike as well. Doctors-this one actually stumped me for a minute, but when even the street roaming telephone credit sellers can go on strike, you know anything is possible. I hadn't realized doctors were paid by the government. I'm still not certain I completely understand that whole situation. UPDATE: Apparently the doctors are subsidized by the state- some of their pay comes from the government and some comes from the patients themselves. Oddly, the patients don't receive subsidized care. If you don't have money, you don't get treatment. And in these days, money won't help you much either. A strike is going on.

Teachers- this strike led to altercations between public and private schools, with the former insisting the latter strike to support them. This article and video describe a disturbing scene at a school in the area. Students became the clear victims of a matter that should remain between adults.

Conflict and tension are not just elevated on school grounds. The comments on this article reflect some of the challenges that occur when a country's military goes on 'strike'- effectively a mutiny when the people charged with protecting you are refusing to do so. The problem, common to many African militaries, is that a certain number of members have come in as 'rebels.' It results in a complex relationship between the incumbent president and the old and new guards. It seems like it should have been obvious to the president that if he only paid a few of them, the rest were not going to be happy. Likewise, once you pay out to a strike, it kind of opens the floodgates for others seeking their remittance. (Of course, the whole messy situation could be avoided by.....simply paying salaries on time in the first place, non?)

What remains impressive is the level of organisation inherent in the strikes, which included the administrative and finance capitals as well as the 'second city.' Rumors abound as to what will happen next. Although our director has been walking around all day and sending curious emails trying to staunch the flow of rumors, the fact is that in Africa rumors can be difficult to determine. Word of mouth is often the only reliable way to get messages around (especially in the face of presidents and the powerful who are known to cut off text messaging, internet connections and t.v/radio service.) We're all left trying to determine how to tell if something is rumor or merely truth traveling the old fashioned way?

Like much else in Africa, it all goes back to your connections. If your roots are deep, you will find water. For the rest of us? We're stuck just waiting it out, watching play by play and speculating on the possible outcomes. It's either that or the CAN.

Election music

Contrary to the drama of the US elections, on this side of the pond elections are much more subdued (well, the leading up to anyway. The aftermaths have their own drama.) I did read a comment or two about the excessive length of the American elections, which I might agree with, though I definitely believe there is a 'too short' period as well. (Surely there's a scientific study out there designed to determine the ideal length of a campaign season.)

Here, it seems to begin with the music. I noticed it about a week or so ago. Large trucks with open backs and blaring speakers ride through the streets. Dancers with candidate tee-shirts wave and undulate as they pass by. A political parade minus the politician. The candidate's poster is plastered to the front and back grill and wherever else there is space. It is an effective method for getting attention. I'm not sure what else it gets. Or who picks the music. It doesn't seem to have a message but rather is whatever is hip and hot at the moment.

Then the posters begin to show up. There are small black and whites, reminiscent of a mug shot, others are bold and colorful. Some are pasted onto large plywood triangles set up for just this purpose, a ready made billboard- larger than life and showing smiling, well dressed politicians eager for your vote. There is often a tag line but not much more. I wonder where these people have come from.

I don't watch tv and so maybe there are debates or public service ads designed to reveal a bit more about the candidate than their stylish wardrobe. The newspaper stands appear slightly more congested lately, and so maybe something can be learned from there.

But it feels so sudden and so incomplete. I want to know who you are and what you stand for. I want to know about your hidden talents and whether or not you can dance. What's your history in politics and what property do you hold? What are your business connections and who is your spouse?

Maybe none of that is really important ....maybe the majority of citizens already know...? Election in fast forward is how it feels, so completely opposite of the long, drawn out theater that American elections have become. Surely there's a middle ground?

In the meantime, impromptu parades and the latest in election music will have to do.